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Re: [Xylo-SDR] Cyclone II board



I like to use Manhattan techniques, that is not the issue. No matter what construction technique you use, without a PCB it too difficult to deal with pins .019" or .015" apart. For Manhattan you need to have some kind of PCB that brings out the pads of the chip to a pad suitable for soldering to, and those high density boards cost more than making a complete PCB if you can lay it out yourself.

SOIC (.050") is another issue, for those chips you can buy little boards that bring the pins out for not too much money, but a High Density FPGA is a whole different ballpark in terms of cost.

At 02:57 AM 3/13/2005, you wrote:
See Chuck Adams (<mailto:k7qo@commspeed.net>k7qo@commspeed.net) explanation of the Manhatten style construction. This is a better construction method than "ugly" construction.

Jack B. "gunny" McAlister KE7FMD <mailto:gunny@cableone.net>gunny@cableone.net

-------Original Message-------

From: <mailto:leon.heller@bulldoghome.com>Leon Heller
Date: 12/11/05 12:38:18
To: <mailto:xylo-sdr@lists.ae5k.us>Xylo-SDR Discussion
Subject: Re: [Xylo-SDR] Cyclone II board


----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:kd5nwa@cox.net>KD5NWA
To: <mailto:xylo-sdr@lists.ae5k.us>Xylo-SDR Discussion
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Xylo-SDR] Cyclone II board

Your board sounds good, and that is a good price for the chip.

All this new technology has one drawback, you must get a PCB board made because it's impossible to breadboard without a PCB to solder the chips to.

Right now when I need a PCB board, I sketch it with pencil to figure the line layout, then use Photoshop to create the 10X art, which after verification I print on a piece of photo paper and use heat transfer to a PCB board.

It works well for small boards, but it's a very tedious method to make a larger or complicated board.

I guess I should have learned to use a Software package like Kicad or Eagle some time back when I had no need for them, so now I would be able to lay out my own PCB's. Hindsight is almost always 20/20 :'(

For simple home-made boards I use Pulsonix to print a transparency on JetStar film in an inkjet printer and use it with positive resist coated material, exposing to UV, developing in sodium hydroxide solution, and etching in ferric chloride. More complicated boards I get made for me from the Gerber output files. It isn't expensive, even for four-layer boards.

Leon

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Cecil Bayona
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"I fail to see why doing the same thing over and over and getting the same results every time is insanity: I've almost proved it isn't; only a few more tests now and I'm sure results will differ this time ... "

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